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  • o Tank – 20-120 Gallon
    o Substrate – 10-36 qt
    o Heating – overhead or undertank, if using an
    undertank heater a
    thermostat is required
    o Digital Thermometer
    o Water Dish – large enough
    for the snake to fit inside
    o Minimum 3 Hides
    o Leaf litter/foliage
    o Low output UVB –
    Optional but recommended.

  • Corn Snakes require a large terrarium as an adult, such as 75-120 gallon terrariums. Babies and juveniles can be kept in smaller terrariums, such as a 20 gallon long, with cage size increasing with growth.

  • Many substrates can be used with corn snakes, including aspen, coconut fiber and peat moss based substrates.

  • Corn Snakes need a hot basking site that reaches 88-93 degrees and a cooler area between 75-80 degrees. They appreciate a day and night cycle that mimics our own. 5.0/6% UVB in spot lighting or a small linear light is recommended.

    If the cage drops under 68 at night a supplemental night heat source may be required.

  • Corn Snakes do not require high percentage humidity. Light misting during shedding is all that should be needed. A large water bowl should be provided that the snake can fit its entire body in to soak.

  • All snakes are strictly carnivores, and the Corn Snakes feed weekly on rodents. Adult snakes will eat less often than juveniles, and all Corn Snakes may have decreased appetite in the winter.

    Corn Snake’s should eat a prey item slightly larger than the circumference of the largest part of their body. The size of the head and neck can be ignored. A lump in the middle of the body should be apparent after feeding, if a lump is no longer seen it is time to move up the prey size. They generally eat once per week.
    Live prey should never be left unattended with the snake. Frozen food must be completely thawed and warm before offering to the snake.
    All snakes should be kept in their enclosure for feeding. It reduces the stress on the animals and makes them more likely to eat. Removing them from their caging does not make them less “aggressive” but can cause your snake to not want to eat.

  • These snakes are excellent climbers and will make use of any branches or perches provided in the terrarium. They should also have several hiding places and good amounts of cover within the different temperature zones for security and thermoregulation.

  • Spot clean your corn snake’s enclosure daily, removing any feces, urates, or shed skin. Full substrate changes should be done every 6 months unless a bioactive setup is in place.

  • Corn Snakes are generally easy-going snakes, but can be a little timid and shy, especially as babies. 

During handling, their body should be evenly supported without allowing large portions to dangle. They will remain calm with less movement from the handler.

    A snake should never be held for at least 24-48 hours before or after a meal.
    They also should avoid being held while shedding.

Corn Snake

Corn Snakes, a type of Rat Snake, inhabit forested areas, overgrown fields, and agricultural land throughout the southeastern United States.
Their name most likely originates from their abundance near corn fields and grain stores, where they feed on the rodents. Some have also likened the checkerboard pattern on their bellies to that of kernels of corn. Whichever way it came about, the name has apparently been in use at least since the late 1600s.
Throughout their range, the Corn Snake displays a wide variety of color and pattern, depending on the population.
Like the vast majority of nonvenomous snakes, Corn Snakes constrict their prey before swallowing it whole.
If they feel threatened, they may rapidly vibrate their tail in imitation of a rattlesnake. They are generally reluctant to bite, but they may resort to that as a last resort to defend themselves.

Size: 40-72 inches
Lifespan: 20-30 years
Diet: Rodents
Care Level: Beginner
Temperament: Docile
Activity: Mostly Diurnal

Dfw Reptarium reserves the right to refuse sale of any animal that we do not believe will receive proper care.

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