Tank (ranges with age), substrate, heating, thermostat, digital thermo-hygrometer, water dish (large enough for the snake to fit inside), minimum 3 hides, low output UVB, climbing branches
Boas are fast growing snakes that will require multiple enclosures throughout their lives. A baby can start in a 40 gallon. We do not recommend anything smaller because of growth speed. A 4x2x2 can provide good grow out room for a juvenile snake.
Boas require a moisture holding substrate. Jungle Mix, Reptisoil, Bio Dude Terra Firma, and Forest Floor are all suitable substrates. Moss can also be mixed in as needed.
Boas require a warm area around 90-95 degrees and a cooler area around 80 degrees. A small amount of 5.0/6% UVB is need in the basking area.
Overhead lighting should be turned off at night to maintain a day/night cycle50-70% humidity is ideal. This can be achieved through regular misting of the enclosure as well as proper substrate. The humidity should be increased during the shedding cycle.
Proper humidity can be obtained by misting the enclosure daily. Keep track of the humidity gauge in the enclosure to determine whether more or less misting is required. If levels keep dropping, part of the screen top can be covered to help keep humidity in.Boas feed solely on rodents. Prey can be offered alive, freshly killed, or frozen/thawed. Most boas will eat thawed rodents but we cannot guarantee that they will eat thawed prey.
Boas should eat a prey item slightly larger than the circumference of the largest part of their body. The size of the head and neck can be ignored. A lump in the middle of the body should be apparent after feeding, if a lump is no longer seen it is time to move up the prey size. They generally eat once per week on smaller sized prey. Once eating on large rats, the rate of feeding can be slowed to once every 14 days. Live prey should never be left unattended with the snake. Frozen food must be completely thawed and warm before offering to the snake.
All snakes should be kept in their enclosure for feeding. It reduces the stress on the animals and makes them more likely to eat. Removing them from their caging does not make them less “aggressive” but can cause your snake to not want to eat.Boas should be given a variety of hiding and climbing areas throughout the terrarium. Bark, driftwood, leaf litter, and plants provide great sources of shelter.
Spot clean your boa’s enclosure daily, removing any feces, urates, or shed skin. Full substrate changes should be done every 6 months unless a bioactive setup is in place.
Boas are generally docile but young snakes may take time to get used to handling. They like to climb upwards and tend to wrap their bodies around the person holding them. For this reason large snakes should not be handled solo without a helper.
They should not be handled for at least 24 hours before or after a meal, as this can stress them to the point of not eating or regurgitation.
Snake mites are the most common health concern encountered by snake keepers. Mites are transferred from snake to snake mostly through handling by multiple people. They can be prevented by washing hands before and after holding any snake.
To treat mites, we suggest a combination of a topical treatment on the snake along with a deep clean and treatment of the terrarium. There are several products available for this.
Respiratory infections are an ailment that can affect captive boas. Symptoms can include wheezing, open-mouthed breathing, and bubbles and fluid coming from the nose/mouth. This is generally brought on by improper cage conditions, mostly too cold of an environment coupled with unsanitary living conditions. Correcting the terrarium conditions often helps, but antibiotics are almost always needed to completely take care of the infection.
If the cage drops under 68 at night a supplemental night heat source may be required.
Boa Constrictor
Size: 5-8 feet
Lifespan: 30-40 years
Diet: Rodents
Care Level: Intermediate
Temperament: Docile
Activity: Nocturnal